Ulta Beauty (ULTA)
Retail especializado de belleza
Ulta Beauty is the largest specialty beauty retailer in the U.S., with a loyalty program of more than 46 million members (~95% of sales) that sustains omnichannel spending and the relationship with partner brands, in a market the 10-K itself describes as having few barriers to entry. It trades at 15× operating income, with an estimated base-case return of +9% over 5 years, It trades close to intrinsic value, far from the required margin of safety..
Moat Compounder estimates the intrinsic value of Ulta Beauty (ULTA) at $866 per share on a five-year horizon. With the stock at $567.47 at 2026-10-12 close, the expected total return is 8.8% per year: fairly valued. The analysis draws on 10-K FY2025 and 10-Q Q2 fiscal 2026. Analysis dated 2026-08-27.
- Price
- $567.47
- Intrinsic value (5y, base)
- $866
- Total annual return (5y)
- 8.8%
- Status (nominal)
- Fairly valued
- Margin of safety
- +18%
The essentials
- The largest specialty beauty retailer in the U.S., with a loyalty program of more than 46 million members generating ~95% of sales.
- Fiscal 2026 guidance raised in the August 27, 2026 release: net sales +6.7% to +7.2% (from +6% to +7%), comparable sales +3.2% to +3.7%, and diluted earnings per share of $28.70-$29.00 (from $28.36-$28.80)
- Capital return 100% via buybacks since 2013 (no dividend): $791.1 million in the first half of fiscal 2026, with $1.0 billion remaining under the $3.0 billion program that the company expects to exhaust before the end of the fiscal year
- Return on invested capital of ~44%, well above the 10% bar, with a balance sheet carrying only $339.6 million of short-term debt drawn to fund the buyback
Intrinsic value — two valuation methods
By both methods, the value today (DCF $898 · Multiples $695) exceeds the market price ($567).
Pillars of the analysis
The verdict — today vs 5 years
Today — fairly valued: at $567 trades ~18.3% below its value discounted to today (~$695); the discount is positive but does not reach the margin of safety we require (≥38%).
At 5 years — En valor: the target price ($866) plus dividends yield between the 4% floor and the 10% average return — a reasonable return, though without the margin of a great investment.
The bridge: the return at 5 years exceeds the risk-free rate (4.5%) — but the discount does not reach the required margin of safety (≥38%). To require a 15% annual return, it would need to be bought at ~$431.
Thesis
The business
The largest specialty beauty retailer in the U.S., with a loyalty program that concentrates ~95% of sales and a return on capital well above the 10% bar. The moat is narrow — the 10-K itself acknowledges few barriers to entry — but real in omnichannel purchase behavior and access to exclusive brand launches.
The valuation
Valued by multiples, as a single business (specialty beauty retail) at the enterprise level on EV/EBIT over operating income, at a multiple of 15× on today's figure. The base value over 5 years is $866/share, with an estimated annual return of +9% (appreciation plus buyback effect via fewer shares, no dividend).
The margin of safety
At the market price, the base-case return implies It trades close to intrinsic value, far from the required margin of safety.. The adverse scenario is anchored in the end of the Target partnership and margin compression from competition; the favorable scenario, in UB Marketplace and UB Media maturing into high-margin lines.
What to watch
The central disconfirmer is whether same-store sales stall again as in fiscal 2024 (+0.7%) once the Space NK acquisition effect fades, combined with the actual impact of the end of the Target partnership in August 2026 on traffic and new-customer acquisition.
Educational / informational. Does not constitute investment advice.
Valuation by multiples
The forward value is divided by the projected shares (fewer, after the buyback financed with cash flow), not today's — dividing the same value among fewer shares raises the value per share. This is the buyback modeled directly — the share-count path from the year-by-year model — not a piece added separately.
Discounted cash flow to present value (DCF)
Net income TTM + D&A − maintenance capex (Greenwald, 50% of total capex) − change in working capital (equity-level, no additional leverage in the bridge); measures the business's cash-generation power and deliberately diverges from the simple net income that anchors the year-model, because maintenance capex (50% of the total) is lower than depreciation and amortization as the base. Move the assumptions: the value recalculates live. The verdict remains anchored by multiples; the DCF contrasts it at present value.
Risk does not inflate the rate: protection is required separately, as a margin of safety over the value. The floor avoids discounting at the pace of a depressed market rate.
| Year | Projected FCF | Discount factor | Present value |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | $1.4 bn | 0.957 | $1.3 bn |
| 2 | $1.5 bn | 0.916 | $1.4 bn |
| 3 | $1.6 bn | 0.876 | $1.4 bn |
| 4 | $1.7 bn | 0.839 | $1.4 bn |
| 5 | $1.8 bn | 0.802 | $1.4 bn |
Reverse DCF — what growth the price discounts
The inverse approach: instead of projecting growth to obtain the value, the market price ($567) is taken as given and it solves for what annual owner-earnings growth would need to hold for 5 years for the present value —at the method's rate (4.5%, no-growth terminal)— to equal that price. It is the disconfirmation test: the expectations the price already pays for, contrasted against the method's projection.
The market discounts less growth (-4.1%/year) than we project (6.0%/year) → if the base case holds, there is margin: perception is more pessimistic than the estimated reality.
That growth implies ~$1.1 bn of owner earnings in year 5 (vs ~$1.8 bn of our base case). It recalculates if the DCF assumptions are edited.
Year-by-year model
Year-by-year projection of the selected scenario. From each year, two versions of the flow are derived: growth FCF (operating flow − total capex, the cash surplus) and maintenance FCF (the owner earnings: what the business yields if it only sustains its capacity). The flow is returned almost in full (dividend + buyback) or redeployed into the operation, so that EV stays roughly flat and multiples compress because the metric grows, not because of cash accumulation. The valuation is done on Resultado operativo (EV/EBIT). In edit mode, revenue, margins, capex, and exit multiples can be adjusted.
| US$ bn | TTM | +1a | +2a | +3a | +4a | +5a |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Operation (editable: revenue, margins, capex, D&A) | ||||||
| Revenue | 12.956 | 13.564 | 14.269 | 14.997 | 15.754 | 16.542 |
| growth | — | +5% | +5% | +5% | +5% | +5% |
| OCF | 1.6 | 1.6 | 1.7 | 1.9 | 2.0 | 2.1 |
| OCF margin | 12.1% | 12.1% | 12.2% | 12.4% | 12.5% | 12.7% |
| Total capex | 0.418 | 0.43 | 0.45 | 0.47 | 0.49 | 0.51 |
| Maintenance capex | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.3 |
| Growth capex | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.3 |
| EBIT | 1.6 | 1.7 | 1.8 | 1.9 | 2.1 | 2.2 |
| EBIT margin | 12.5% | 12.6% | 12.7% | 12.9% | 13.1% | 13.3% |
| NOPAT | 1.2 | 1.3 | 1.4 | 1.5 | 1.6 | 1.7 |
| D&A | 0.32 | 0.335 | 0.355 | 0.375 | 0.395 | 0.415 |
| Cash flow (the two versions) | ||||||
| FCF growth (OCF − total capex) | 1.1 | 1.2 | 1.3 | 1.4 | 1.5 | 1.6 |
| FCF maintenance (OCF − maintenance capex) | 1.4 | 1.4 | 1.5 | 1.6 | 1.7 | 1.9 |
| Owner earnings (NOPAT + D&A − maintenance capex) | 1.2 | 1.3 | 1.3 | 1.4 | 1.5 | 1.6 |
| EV and multiples (compressed by the growth of the metric) | ||||||
| Cash | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| EV (MktCap − Cash + Debt) | 24.6 | 24.6 | 24.6 | 24.6 | 24.6 | 24.6 |
| EV / FCF growth | 21.4x | 20.2x | 18.9x | 17.6x | 16.5x | 15.4x |
| EV / FCF maintenance | 18.1x | 17.2x | 16.1x | 15.1x | 14.2x | 13.3x |
| EV / Owner earnings | 20.3x | 19.5x | 18.2x | 17.2x | 16.2x | 15.2x |
| EV / NOPAT | 20.1x | 19.0x | 17.9x | 16.8x | 15.8x | 14.8x |
| EV / EBIT | 15.2x | 14.4x | 13.6x | 12.7x | 11.9x | 11.2x |
| EV / Sales | 1.9x | 1.8x | 1.7x | 1.6x | 1.6x | 1.5x |
| Shares and shareholder return | ||||||
| Shares (M · buyback/dilution) | 43.062 | 41.34 | 39.69 | 38.1 | 36.58 | 35.12 |
| net change (− buyback / + dilution) | — | -4.0% | -4.0% | -4.0% | -4.0% | -4.0% |
| Buyback in $ (current buyback, grows with FCF) | $1.1 bn | $1.2 bn | $1.3 bn | $1.4 bn | $1.5 bn | $1.6 bn |
| Value curve (value/share at exit multiple by year) | ||||||
| Value / share (target price) | — | $633 | $700 | $777 | $822 | $866 |
| CAGR vs price | — | (+17%) | (+14%) | (+13%) | (+11%) | (+10%) |
Year 0 is the TTM as of August 1, 2026 ($12.956bn of revenue, +11.2% year over year), taken as is: the second quarter carries no non-recurring items to normalize, and the TTM margins (12.46% operating, 9.34% net, 12.10% operating cash flow) sit practically where they already were in the prior window. Year 1 is anchored to the raised guidance from the August 27, 2026 release, read across its three anchors and projected over the rolling window. Fiscal 2026 net sales of +6.7% to +7.2% over the prior fiscal year's $12.393bn give $13.25bn; with the first half already realized at $6.200bn (+10.0%), the range implies a second half of $7.05bn, or +4.4%. That deceleration is not deterioration: starting in the third quarter the company anniversaries the Space NK acquisition, which is what separates the quarter's +8.9% consolidated growth from its +3.8% comparable sales. The window ending in August 2027 combines that second half with a first half of fiscal 2027 growing at the organic pace (~5%, comparables of 3% to 3.5% plus store openings), giving +4.7%. That is why the path is not monotonic but a one-year trough followed by recovery to the durable pace (the deceleration rule's rebound exception): +4.7% in year 1, +5.2% in year 2, and then a gentle decline toward +5.0% by year 5, which is the sustainable growth rate of a chain that grows through comparables and openings rather than acquisitions. Extrapolating the TTM's +11.2% would have capitalized the anniversary of a purchase as if it were business growth. Year 1's operating margin is anchored to the guidance's other anchor: operating income growth of +8.3% to +9.3% over fiscal 2025's $1.533bn gives $1.668bn, or ~12.6% over guided revenue, and from there it expands toward 13.28% by year 5 on operating leverage from the online marketplace and the retail media business. The net margin does not track it in year 1 and dips slightly to 9.30%: the diluted earnings-per-share guidance of $28.70 to $29.00 implies it, because the company drew $339.6M of short-term debt to sustain the buyback and that financing cost sits below the operating line. It recovers toward 9.75% by year 5 as scale absorbs the interest. The share count path is a single one across all three scenarios and comes from revealed behavior: 43.062M diluted in the second quarter versus 45.112M a year earlier, a 4.5% annual net reduction, modeled at 4.0% out of prudence. The company repurchased $791.1M in the first half and stated it expects to exhaust the $1.0 billion remaining under the $3.0 billion program before the end of the fiscal year; that corroborates the rate but does not set it. Capacity is not a constraint either: with no dividend, the $1.15bn of free cash flow over a $23.2bn market value gives nearly 5% annually. The base case's exit multiple is 13.9 times operating income, at the enterprise level and within the 12-17× specialty-retail band, supported by a return on invested capital of ~44% —well above the 10% bar— and a terminal growth rate of 5.0%. The adverse case stresses year 1 well below what guidance implies and compresses the operating margin; the favorable case assumes the online marketplace, the retail media business, and the international expansion scale faster.
Today's elevated multiple is the price of growth: if the business grows, the entry point cheapens on its own going forward (the metric grows while EV stays roughly flat). The exit multiple at 3 years is higher than the terminal at 5 years —at 3 years there is more growth still ahead—, so the value curve shows whether value creation is concentrated in the early or the later years. The required return is applied to the base scenario.
Scenarios (bear / base / bull) — at 5 years
Value sensitivity
Value per share by growth scenario (rows) and the compression or expansion of the exit multiple (columns). The color shows whether it beats the required return.
| Growth ↓ / Multiple → | Compression−15% | Base multiple | Expansion+15% |
|---|---|---|---|
| BearRevenue starting at +2.2% (well below what guidance implies · base 12× operating income of the terminal year, the floor of the archetype's 12-17× band. | $501 -2.5% | $589 0.7% | $677 3.6% |
| BaseRevenue anchored to the raised guidance from the August 27 · base 13.9× operating income of the terminal year, above the midpoint of the 12-17× band due to the return on capital and scale, without reaching the ceiling given the growth deceleration and competition. | $736 5.3% | $866 8.8% · base case | $996 11.9% |
| BullRevenue starting at +6.2% (the online marketplace · base 15.9× operating income of the terminal year, near the ceiling of the 12-17× band. | $961 11.1% | $1,130 14.8% | $1,300 18.0% |
Multiples — today
High today = growth is being paid for; they cheapen toward 3 and 5 years (see Projections).
Forward multiples
With today's price fixed and the metric growing, what multiple is being paid at 3 and 5 years. Today's high multiple is the price of growth: if the business grows, the entry multiple cheapens on its own.
Optionalities
They are valued separately, with their own rationale, and are not incorporated into the base or the verdict (they are excess return). When assigning them value — in Editmode —, the total with optionalities updates live, without moving the base.
The verdict, the base CAGR, and the margin of safety are always calculated on the base; optionalities do not alter them (with optionalities at $0 they do not move).
Maximum price to pay today — by required return
Each card fixes a required annual return and answers: if the business is worth $866 in 5 years, what is the maximum that can be paid today to obtain that return? Since it now trades at $567, the margin of safety is how much cheaper the market is than that maximum. The three thresholds: 4% covers inflation (the floor), 10% is the long-term average return, and 15% is the level of a great investment.
Return and margin of safety calculator
The maximum price to pay today to earn the required return, with the dividend collected as a separate flow. Both controls are editable.
With a target price of $866 in 5 years and a required return of 4.5% annually, the maximum to pay today is $695. Against the current market price ($567), the margin of safety is 18.3% (trades below the maximum → there is margin) and the total return at that price would be 8.8% annually.
Valuation quality
- Entry multiple. Trades at 15× operating income, against a 12-17× exit band for the specialty-retail archetype.
- Expected return (base case). +9% annually over 5 years, appreciation plus the buyback effect.
- Margin of safety. It trades close to intrinsic value, far from the required margin of safety.
- Exit multiple. 13.9× operating income of the terminal year, with cash and debt in the bridge.
- Sensitivity to the adverse scenario. The adverse scenario, anchored in the Target loss and competition, leaves a return close to zero.
- Decline in the stock. The stock fell, with the reported operating results not justifying the magnitude of the decline.
ROIC vs the 10% bar — the compounding engine
The quality bar — return bands
The return on capital is judged against absolute bands; the value-creation floor is the market's opportunity cost (~10%). A stock's volatility does not measure business risk.
ROIC 44% → exceptional (≥20%). The bar is a measure of business quality, not the method's discount rate: value is discounted to today at the risk-free rate, and protection is required separately, as a margin of safety.
Owner earnings — the waterfall
It charges maintenance capex (which EBITDA does not deduct). The growth capex ($0.2 bn) is voluntary and is not charged to the base — it depresses FCF today, creates value tomorrow.
Cash & reinvestment
Margins — trajectory
Each margin over sales, year by year: historical (solid line) → projection (dotted).
Owner earnings — the detail
Business quality
- ✓ ROIC exceeds the cost of capital (~10%)
- ✓ CFROIC backs up the ROIC (110%, cash vs. accruals)
- ✓ Healthy balance sheet (low corporate debt)
- ✓ Durable competitive moat (multiple advantages)
Quality — cash · ROIC · reinvestment
- Return on capital. Well above the 10% bar, in the exceptional band, on invested capital reduced by efficient working capital.
- Cash generation. TTM operating cash flow of US$1,545 million, consistent and predictable relative to net income.
- Cash conversion. TTM operating cash flow exceeds TTM net income, with no signs of paper earnings.
- Capital intensity. TTM capex of US$414 million (~3.3% of sales), moderate for a retailer with a mature store base.
- Gross margin. Expanded 100 basis points in the first quarter of fiscal 2026 (40.1% vs 39.1%) on lower shrink and better merchandise margin.
- Stock-based compensation. SBC equivalent to ~0.3% of sales, immaterial relative to cash flow.
Revenue trajectory
Values in US$ bn. The % over each bar is the year-over-year (YoY) growth — each year, historical and projected, vs the prior one (the TTM vs the TTM from a year ago). The path comes from the same source as the table; years without their own series in the model are interpolated between the anchors. Historical solid, projection in a lighter shade.
Where the growth comes from · by driver
Weight in revenue and year-over-year (YoY) growth, in reported USD.
Ulta reports a single segment, so growth is broken down by driver (average ticket × transactions, the same-store sales formula) rather than by geography or segment. Fiscal 2025 same-store sales (+5.4%) are explained by +3.3 points of average ticket and +2.0 points of transactions; the rest of total growth (+9.7%) comes from new stores and, above all, the consolidation of Space NK, an effect that fades as the acquisition anniversary passes.
Growth engine — operating drivers
Annual levels from the official filing (10-K); the % over each bar is the year-over-year (YoY) growth vs the prior year.
Ulta's central driver is same-store sales, broken down into average ticket (price and mix) and transactions (traffic), the same volume × price logic the method applies to retail. The second driver is the store base and recent international expansion (Space NK, Mexico, Middle East), which today carries less weight than same-store sales but explains the gap between total growth and same-store growth. The loyalty program is not a direct revenue driver, but it is the database that sustains average ticket and retention.
Projections
| Metric | FY23 | FY24 | FY25 | TTM | +1A | +2A | +3a | +4A | +5a |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Revenue | $11.2 bn | $11.3 bn (+1%) | $12.4 bn (+10%) | $13 bn (+11%) | $13.6 bn (+5%) | $14.3 bn (+5%) | $15 bn (+5%) | $15.8 bn (+5%) | $16.5 bn (+5%) |
Operating income | $1.7 bn | $1.6 bn (-7%) | $1.5 bn (-2%) | $1.6 bn (+2%) | $1.7 bn (+6%) | $1.8 bn (+6%) | $1.9 bn (+7%) | $2.1 bn (+7%) | $2.2 bn (+7%) |
Net income | $1.3 bn | $1.2 bn (-7%) | $1.2 bn (-4%) | $1.2 bn (+1%) | $1.3 bn (+4%) | $1.3 bn (+7%) | $1.4 bn (+6%) | $1.5 bn (+6%) | $1.6 bn (+6%) |
FCF (OCF − capex) | $1 bn | $1 bn (-7%) | $1.1 bn (+11%) | $1.2 bn (+21%) | $1.2 bn (+6%) | $1.3 bn (+7%) | $1.4 bn (+8%) | $1.5 bn (+6%) | $1.6 bn (+8%) |
The % are the annual (year-over-year) growth: each year —historical and projected— vs the prior one; the TTM (trailing 12m) vs the TTM of a year ago, to avoid overlapping windows. The historicals are exact figures from the official filings; the projected years come from the year-by-year model (the intermediate years without their own series are interpolated between the anchors). The projected columns (+1y…+5y) are 12-month windows counted from the TTM close (01-ago-2026): the projection starts from the most recently reported data, not the fiscal year. The projected base is realistic and unbiased — the risk discount is applied at the end, via the required return. The rationale for each metric is in the (i).
Growth quality
- Same-store sales. Recovery from +0.7% in fiscal 2024 to +5.4% in fiscal 2025 and +5.3% in the first quarter of fiscal 2026.
- U.S. store expansion. Stated potential of more than 1,800 stores versus the current 1,505; increasingly incremental growth room.
- International expansion. Space NK, the Mexico joint venture, and the Middle East franchise are new pieces that are still small.
- High-margin lines (UB Marketplace, UB Media). Launched in fiscal 2025, with early traction but still marginal contribution to the total.
- Raised guidance. The June 2, 2026 release raised operating income and earnings-per-share guidance for the current year.
- Loss of the Target channel. The end of the partnership in August 2026 removes more than 600 points of distribution.
Moat strength
The business and its moat
What it does and how it makes money
Ulta Beauty sells cosmetics, fragrance, skin care, wellness, and hair care, and offers salon services within its own stores — an "everything in one place" model that combines physical retail, e-commerce, and service. The commercial engine is the Ulta Beauty Rewards loyalty program, with more than 46 million members generating ~95% of net sales; that proprietary database allows for personalized marketing and sustains negotiation with partner brands, which account for ~51% of sales (the top ten) plus ~11% of private label and exclusives.
Two new lines monetize existing traffic with no significant additional capital: UB Marketplace, a marketplace integrated into the site where Ulta earns a commission on third-party sales without taking on inventory risk (launched in fiscal 2025 with more than 200 brands and 5,000 SKUs), and UB Media, an advertising network that sells access to the customer base to partner brands. International expansion adds royalties via the joint venture in Mexico and the franchise in the Middle East, without the full capital cost of an owned store.
Scale and competitive position
It is the largest specialty beauty retailer in the U.S., within a beauty and salon services market of ~US$126,000 million (Euromonitor/IBISWorld) and an estimated universe of ~140 million beauty enthusiasts as its target consumer. The company states growth potential to more than 1,800 standalone stores in the U.S. versus the current 1,505, with an average net investment of ~US$2.4 million per new store — expansion that is still available but increasingly incremental.
Outside the U.S., the footprint is marginal: 84 Space NK stores in the United Kingdom, 2 in Ireland, 9 in Mexico (joint venture), and 2 in the Middle East (franchise), acquired or opened only in fiscal 2025. The reported growth for the first quarter of fiscal 2026 (+11.1% in net sales) is inflated by the comparison against a quarter that did not yet include Space NK; that effect fades as the acquisition anniversary passes.
The moat: why it is costly to compete
The quantitative evidence of the moat is in customer behavior: omnichannel customers historically spend more than 3 times what store-only shoppers spend, and 73% of loyalty members transact exclusively in physical stores — a consumption pattern that pure e-commerce does not easily replicate. The differentiated assortment of ~30,000 products and ~600 brands covering every price tier (luxury, mass, and salon) under one roof is a positioning no competitor fully matches.
Relationships with partner brands grant access to exclusive launches, permanent or temporary, ahead of the competition, and site selection relies on proprietary beauty-market analytics and loyalty-member data — the basis, according to the company itself, of a high-performing real estate portfolio.
Moat direction and threats
The moat reads as stable, not widening: same-store sales recovered from +0.7% in fiscal 2024 to +5.4% in fiscal 2025 and +5.3% in the first quarter of fiscal 2026, but the 10-K itself acknowledges a market that is "highly competitive with few barriers to entry," against big-box retailers, specialty chains, drugstores, online marketplaces, and pure e-commerce, many with greater financial and marketing resources.
The most concrete threat, with a firm date, is the end of the Ulta Beauty at Target format: on August 14, 2025, the two companies agreed not to renew the partnership (more than 600 locations) when it expires in August 2026, eliminating a distribution channel and a source of new-customer acquisition. Added to that is the dependence on relationships without long-term supply contracts with the ten brands that account for ~51% of sales, in an industry undergoing ongoing supplier consolidation.
Business / sector quality
- Business model. Specialty beauty retail with integrated salon services and a single reportable segment; growth relies on average ticket, transactions, and early international expansion.
- Demand recurrence. Beauty and personal care consumption is recurring, though discretionary and sensitive to the macroeconomic cycle.
- Assortment differentiation. Coverage of every price tier (luxury, mass, salon) under one roof, a positioning no competitor fully replicates.
- Barriers to entry. The 10-K itself acknowledges a highly competitive market with few barriers to entry.
- Omnichannel customer behavior. Omnichannel customers spend more than 3 times what single-channel customers spend; 73% of members transact only in store.
- Reliance on partner brands. The top ten brands account for ~51% of sales, with no long-term supply contracts.
Solvency margin
Each pillar between danger and solid — the further right, the more room.
The cushion against the contraction phase of the cycle: the further right each pillar sits, the more room before solvency is compromised.
Net cash position
Cash + liquid investments − debt. The backstop that supports the balance sheet during the contraction phase of the cycle.
Debt composition
Not all debt is equal: only the structural needs refinancing; the rest is operational (self-liquidating).
Structural debt is what is exposed to the contraction phase of the cycle; operational debt (leases, matched funding) self-liquidates with the business.
Company health / solvency
- ✓Leverage (net debt / EBITDA)Net cash $0 bn
- –Interest coverage (EBIT / interest)no data
- –Liquidity (current ratio)no data
- ✓Cash quality (CFROIC vs ROIC)CFROIC backs 110% of ROIC
- ✓Value creation (ROIC − 10% bar)+34pp
- ✓Malinvestment test (capex vs incremental ROIC)Capex/D&A 1.3x
- ✓Float / working capitalFrees up cash $0 bn (float / negative WC)
- ✓Dilution (SBC % of revenue + shares)SBC 0.3% of revenue
A traffic-light interpreted by the method (not generic): float (negative WC) adds up, capex is judged by incremental ROIC (malinvestment test), and a lender is not subjected to corporate solvency. The (i) shows the derivation of each number.
Health — balance sheet risks
- Debt. Only short-term debt (~US$145 million); no long-term debt outstanding on the recent balance sheet.
- Cash. Cash and equivalents of US$166 million plus US$55 million of short-term investments, after funding buybacks and Space NK.
- Current liquidity. Current assets of US$3,022 million against current liabilities of US$2,304 million.
- Operating leverage (leases). Operating lease liabilities of ~US$2,158 million, characteristic of the leased-store model.
- Interest coverage. Positive net interest (more interest income than expense) from the net cash position.
Who runs it
- Kecia Steelman was promoted to CEO in January 2025 after more than a decade at the company (chief stores officer since 2015, chief operating officer since 2021, president and chief operating officer since 2023).
- No dividend since fiscal 2013; capital return is 100% via share buybacks.
- US$898.5 million repurchased in fiscal 2025 (1,999,633 shares) under a US$3,000 million authorization in effect since October 2024, with US$1,300 million available at the close of the first quarter of fiscal 2026.
- The Space NK acquisition (closed in the second quarter of fiscal 2025) was the main recent M&A transaction, adding 86 stores in the United Kingdom and Ireland.
Capital allocation — indicators
Shares — ownership and dilution
Who owns the shares — the alignment and whether there is a controlling shareholder.
Minimal dilution: SBC represents less than 2% of value per year and the share count is ~flat — it does not erode value per share.
Management / capital allocation
- CEO track record. Kecia Steelman spent more than a decade at the company before becoming CEO in January 2025.
- Director ownership. Low director and officer group ownership (~0.2%), with no founder or controlling shareholder.
- Capital allocation. 100% of capital return via buybacks since 2013, funded by operating cash and not by debt.
- M&A discipline. The Space NK acquisition is the only relevant recent transaction, modest in size relative to the balance sheet.
Why it trades at this price
- The end of the in-store partnership with Target (announced August 2025, expiring August 2026) removed more than 600 points of distribution and triggered a negative market reaction beyond the channel's actual weight in total sales.
- The market is discounting a normalization of growth after the fiscal 2025 same-store sales peak (+5.4%), fearing a repeat of the fiscal 2024 stall (+0.7%).
- The stock fell despite the June 2, 2026 release showing same-store sales of +5.3%, earnings per share up +15.5%, and raised guidance — a price reaction that does not track the reported operating improvement.
There is no operating collapse behind the decline: first-quarter fiscal 2026 results beat and the company raised earnings guidance. The gap between perception and results suggests motivated sellers reacting to the noise of the Target loss and fear of a structural slowdown, rather than a deteriorating business.
Return asymmetry — risk/reward
The annual return (CAGR at 5 years) in each scenario, with the total period return below — the margin of safety made visual: upside range wide, downside range narrow.
Even in the bear scenario, the return holds at +1%/year (+4% total): the margin of safety protects the downside. The bull (+15%/year, +99% total) exceeds it comfortably — a favorable asymmetry, with a narrow downside range and a wide upside range.
Bear case — disconfirmation
- Larger-scale competition (Amazon, Sephora inside Kohl's, big-box retailers) erodes market share and compresses gross margin through greater promotional activity.
- The end of the Target partnership in August 2026 reduces traffic and new-customer acquisition more than the base model anticipates.
- Discretionary beauty spending weakens under prolonged macroeconomic pressure (inflation, tariffs) and same-store sales stall again, as in fiscal 2024.
- Inventory shrink (including organized retail crime) stays above historical levels and continues to pressure gross margin.
Bull case — the thesis for
- UB Marketplace and UB Media scale as high-margin commission and advertising lines, expanding operating income faster than modeled in the base case.
- International expansion (Space NK, the Mexico joint venture, the Middle East franchise) becomes a meaningful additional growth engine beyond the mature U.S. market.
- Sustained buybacks at a reasonable multiple keep accelerating earnings-per-share growth beyond business growth.
- Same-store sales sustain the fiscal 2025-2026 recovery pace instead of normalizing toward the lower historical average.
Risks — what breaks the base case
- Macroeconomic conditions. Inflation, rates, and tariffs could reduce discretionary beauty spending; the company expects continued inflationary pressure in 2026.
- Structural competition. A market with few barriers to entry, against players with greater financial and marketing resources.
- Reliance on partner brands. No long-term supply contracts; the top ten account for ~51% of sales.
- End of the Target partnership. Expires in August 2026, eliminating more than 600 points of distribution and customer acquisition.
- Shrink and inventory. Shrink levels above historical norms, including organized retail crime, impacting margin.
Lenses — the value investing thinkers
Each thinker's analytical framework applied to our data.
The price is attractive, but business quality is not unanimous.
- Buffett / Graham Quality + margin of safety
A narrow moat and ROIC 44% above the 10% bar, but the margin is limited (+18%) → excellent business at a fair price.
- Peter Lynch Growth at a reasonable price (GARP)
A stalwart growing 6% at a multiple/growth of 2.5 → expensive for its growth.
- Joel Greenblatt Cheap and high-return (Magic Formula)
Earnings yield 7% (EBIT/EV) + ROIC 44% → brushes the Magic Formula.
- Howard Marks Perception vs reality + cycle
The price discounts -4% vs our 6%: perception is more pessimistic than reality, with an identified source of the discount.
- Seth Klarman Capital protection (bear scenario)
Bear-scenario floor +1%/yr, bull-scenario ceiling +15%/yr over 5y → capital protected, asymmetry in your favor.
- Pat Dorsey Moat strength (Five Rules)
A narrow moat, stable; sources: cost advantage, efficient scale, intangibles, switching costs → partially passes the Five Rules.
- Aswath Damodaran Expectations implied by the price
Justifying the price requires discounting -4%, within what we project (6%) — the story squares with the numbers.






